Miguel Maria Cardoso
Last month we sat down with Miguel Maria Cardoso at Mouco in Porto. We had a very relaxed talk with him and we got to know more about his past in Ponte de Lima as well as his interests and future projects. We've always been curious to know more about Miguel's personal side. Besides being an incredible athlete, he's a person with great taste and and with an unique brand. Hope you like this interview!
We're here in Mouco, have you ever have been here before?
Yes, I already knew it, I've been here a few times and I really like it! My parents have stayed here and they loved it and it's an architecturally very interesting place, I'm someone who likes architecture and this raw, industrial architecture, cement, shown with wood, with greenery, is something I like. Beyond that it's quiet, you can hear a lot of good music. There's always good music playing here. I know there are some shows where I haven't had the chance to come and see any bands. It's a place I really like here in Porto.
For those who don't know you, who is Miguel Maria? How would you describe yourself briefly?
Miguel Maria Varejão Leal Cardoso is my name. I'm 31 years old and I was born on January 15, 1993 and I'm a Capricorn. I lived in Ponte de Lima until I was 14 and when I turned 14 I came to Porto to play basketball. My father is from Porto and my mother is from Ponto Lima. They got married and still live in Ponto Lima.
I stayed here from the age of 14 to 19, when I went to live in Paris to play for Nanterre. From there I went to Germany, Spain, Iceland, until I came back to Portugal and now I'm back in Porto with 31 years old. I'm now in my third season at Porto. I'm back at the club where I started my professional career. I'm a basketball player, but there are other things. Miguel is much more than that. I'm a player, as I've already said, architecture, fashion, art, music are areas I'm very interested in. There are many things that fascinate me. Obviously my family is my most precious asset, without a doubt: my son, my wife, one of my parents, my brother. I'm extremely grateful and thankful for the life I have. For my career above all. I love being at home, listening to good music, reading and traveling.
How was your day today? What did you do?
I woke up this morning and had a good breakfast. I'm someone who likes to eat well. I went to trainning, I had a morning workout and went to the gym. Then I went home for lunch with my wife and son. After lunch we went on a tour of the furniture and decor stores that we like very much. Then I came home and had a snack. I had some time with my son and my wife. At the end of the day I went to afternoon training, trained again and now we’re in Mouco.
You started playing basketball in Ponte Lima at the age of 4, as you said. I want to ask you. Why basketball? As a self-confessed “Portista”, during your childhood you saw Porto winning all types of trophies in football. Why basketball and not, for example, football?
The truth is that I started playing basketball at the age of four. My father played and so did my uncle. At the time I had an older cousin who played in Ponte Lima. I started going to training, I liked it and I stayed. And from then until today, I haven't stopped. Then I started playing soccer too, until I was 14 I played basketball and soccer. When Porto invited me, I had to choose. It's a sport I really admire and enjoy and Porto, it's true, won a lot in those years and they've continued to win to this day, thank god.
We know that your mother played and still plays an important role in your career, as does your father. Nowadays, does your mother still take her magazines with her when she goes to the Dragão Arena or not?
It's true (laughs). My mom doesn't come to my games, in fact my mom doesn't watch the games. She only likes to watch games after they've finished. As I've said in a few interviews, my parents have always been very calm people and have never put any pressure on me. My father watches the games, he's more enthusiastic, while my mother is more relaxed and doesn't watch them live.
My mother prefers to read magazines instead of watching my games. She passed that to me too. I'm still old school, I love reading magazines, the smell and touch of paper, even though it's all digital now.
You did all your youth journey in Porto. What's the one moment that stands out for you? For you, what is the highlight of your career as a Porto player?
I think life is made up of moments. Here in Porto, from the age of 14 to 18, I had several good moments. Obviously, the debut as a professional is fantastic, but the title of national champion, when I arrived in Porto, as a beginner, with the first year, U-14 boys, is something I will never forget, because they were fantastic people. It was in the company of great friends, who are my friends to this day, with Sérgio Marante, who is a fantastic coach, with Professor Eurico Brandão, Francisco Rodes, who is even my cousin, Guilherme Comando, among many others, who are my friends to this day. Then I was lucky enough to meet some very good people, Diogo Gomes, who was my coach, etc. I was lucky enough to meet some very good people, so I loved every moment. I'm very grateful, above all, for the life I have, for the career I've had, for the moments I had at Futebol Porto, and that I'm having now, as well as for all the moments I've had at various clubs. Obviously some places I liked more than others, but they all gave me a lot of good things, and that's what I focus on.
You've played for Benfica and Sporting. How did you feel as a Porto fan, or how did you deal with that situation? Despite being an excellent professional, did you feel any discomfort from the fans? Or even on a psychological level?
No, not at all. I'm a professional and I've always done my job. I have good friends on both sides. I think that when you're a professional, you're a professional. I defended Benfica and Sporting as I had to, today I defend the colors of Futebol Clube do Porto as I have to, and I will always do so in my career.
In 2022 you'll return to Futebol Clube Porto and renew your contract. This is a difficult question, but is your idea to finish your career in Porto, or are you not even thinking about it yet?
I live one day at a time. Obviously I'd like to finish my career here. I want to stay here for many years, I want to play for Futebol Clube do Porto for many years. It's my club, it's my city and I have my home here and my family.
Let's move on a little to Miguel's more personal side and leave the athlete part behind. In 2021, together with your wife, you decided to create shinkokyū. How did this idea come about?
Well, this idea came about when we were living in Lisbon at the time. I've always liked sneakers and Carolina has always liked fashion, she even studied fashion in Paris and Rio de Janeiro. We decided to create our own brand. As well as liking basketball, there are other things I like to do and occupy my time, especially different stimulations, so we decided to create shinkokyū. At the time we were in Lisbon and the high Moq's that the factories were asking of us were too much for what we wanted to start and so the idea sat in the drawer for a few years. Until 2021, when we were in Iceland, the factory contacted us in December to say that it was a shame our idea wasn't going ahead because we had some very good prototypes.
So in May 2021 we decided to launch the brand. We're a small company. But we've been going and growing, thank god and we're launching new products. We want to create a concept, we want to create a base not just of customers, but of people who identify with the brand above all we want to create a community that identifies with the brand .We want people to feel comfortable, we want to create a product of choice with comfort with style, obviously. We started with sneakers, we've already launched socks, candles, shirts and we're going to launch another item soon. We're growing step by step, not too crazy because it's just the two of us and that means dedicating time to the brand. It's like a child, that's what we say. I play basketball and Carolina has other things too. In other words, always with your feet firmly on the ground but always creating the best possible product.
The name of the brand refers to calm, to relax. Are these characteristics part of your own personality?
The name of the brand comes from Japanese, we love Japan. The idea for our honeymoon was to go to Japan, but unfortunately we got married during the pandemic and couldn't go to Japan yet, and in the meantime Manuel was born and we haven't been there yet, but we will soon. We are passionate about everything that is Japanese culture, Japanese style, attention to detail, calm, mindfulness. In other words, shinkokyū is deep breathing.
It reminds us of the feeling you get when you put on comfortable sneakers. After a day's work, you're calm. You go for a walk, you're walking ,you feel good you're wearing comfortable trainers. In other words, we're calm people. Obviously there are quieter moments in life than usual but we always try to lead our lives in a peaceful and grateful way and that's what shinkokyū is all about. In other words, it's tranquillity and comfort.
How does it work? What is your creative process like? Do you have a role within the company? Does your wife have another? Or does it end up being a mix?
It ends up being a mix. Carolina does more of the technical drawing and everything computer-related, from video to editing and cutting, but we both create. We both go to the factories, choosing colors, laces, materials, soles, what looks good or not. Everything from washing to finishing that's more my part, but we split the tasks, we're 50-50 and we're a good team.
Although this question is also a bit difficult to answer, because I believe you still have many more years to go. After retiring from basketball, will you dedicate yourself 100% to your brand?
Yes, but I don't know. There are so many things then new things come along. I like interior design, I like architecture, of course I want to dedicate myself to it, obviously, when I leave basketball, I'll end up dedicating more time to the brand. It definitely will be. In fact, I already dedicate a lot of time to it and I'm going to dedicate even more, but other projects may also come up. I like to do several things at the same time. I hope that there will be opportunities for things that I like but I'm definitely going to devote a lot more time to the brand when I leave basketball.
Abroad we have several examples of athletes at football level, like Hector Bellerín, who has taken a public interest in fashion and he inclusively launched his brand recently. We also have Jules Koundé, Rafael Leão who are very connected to fashion as well and they're not afraid to share their tastes. Here in Portugal we had Ricardo Mangas recently. In basketball we also have Devin Booker, abroad in the NBA. He also has interesting creative projects. Apart from you, here in Portugal, do you put anyone in the same basket as you or not?
Good question, here in Portugal last year you had Aaron Harrison who was my teammate. He was a player who looked good, he always wore some cool american brands. Everyone has their own style, I respect people as they are, there are people who care more, there are people who care less. But I don't see anyone, honestly.
Have you ever felt stigmatized for sharing and exposing your interests?
No, I think I've been aware of who I am and what I want to be and who wants me. I don't think I've ever been afraid to be who I am. Obviously sometimes I wear more colorful pants and they'll tell me “what that is?”, but it's something I can live with. I really don't care what people think of me, that's the reality. I wear what I want and what I feel good in. I don't care what people think of what I wear or what I don't wear because it doesn't make any difference to my life. That's it. That's what I have to say.
What are your main goals for the brand? Where do you see shinkokyū in the next 5 years?
We definitely want to grow, obviously. In 5 years we want to grow, we want to have a solid community. We want to have sneakers, we want to have a complete collection. I think in five years' time I want to have a complete portfolio and have time to present the brand to stores. I want to travel, I want to have time for that. In other words, it's difficult at the moment. I like going out to people, I really like going to stores, talking, presenting my brand. I still can't do it at the moment. In 5 years' time I want to have the freedom to be able to maybe say this is my brand, this is it, this is the portfolio, this is what we see. I like presenting, I like dealing with people, getting to know people and that's where a lot of contacts are made. I hope that the company, which is already growing, will grow step by step and consolidating in the fashion world.
The vast majority of the brand's products are sneakers. Even on Instagram, in your description, you have wrtitten “No Gender Sneakers”. However, at the moment you're presenting other types of products apart from footwear. How did that come about? The idea was initially to be a footwear brand, but you felt obliged to expand the range?
Things just came naturally. It's “No Gender Sneakers”, but “It's No Gender” everything, because it's all completely unisex. I wear our T-shirt, Carolina wears it, my mother wears it, my father wears it, in other words, older people wear it and younger people wear it. In other words, everyone can use our products. That's really it. In other words, we don't want to make a distinction between what belongs to men and what belongs to women. If the man wants to wear it, he wears it, if the woman wants to wear it, she wears it. We started with a sneaker brand, but we knew we wanted to move on to other things, because we both like other things and I love t-shirts, hoodies, I love comfortable clothes. In other words, we have this thing and we knew we were going to launch, as we like home things, we launched our candles too. That's the good thing about having just the two of us is that we can launch whatever we want. If I want to launch a chair, I'll do it or a table for example, or a perfume. In other words, we do whatever we want, that's the reality.
What would be the dream collab?
I don't know, honestly. There are brands that I like, there are brands that Carolina likes - that's a tough one.
I'm a fan of the classic brands, but I also like the brands that are emerging now. Carolina loves Sezane, Céline, just as she likes Vuitton, Miu Miu, maybe any of those.
You have a very unique style. I'd like to know who your main inspirations are? within this question I'd like to ask you another one. The fact that you've lived abroad, in various cities, various countries, do you think this has had an impact on the way you see things?
Traveling and living in other countries has definitely helped me. There's nothing like traveling. I'm passionate about traveling and getting to know new things, new places, seeing people on the street. I love it. I can sit on a café in Paris for two hours just watching people go by and it doesn't cost me anything.
There are people I like, without a doubt, who inspire me. I really like Nick Fouquet. I'm in love with Nico Fouquez's hats, I really like his style. I like Biel Juste, who wears our sneakers a lot. Joan Margarit too, they're two people we're lucky enough to know and they wear our sneakers a lot and I identify with their style too.
I like Héctor Bellerim and Evan Mock, without a doubt, I really like their style. Devin Booker you've already mentioned. I like Shai from the NBA too. In other words, I like them all, a bit of everything.
Abroad, it's increasingly common to see this synergy between fashion and sport. In soccer, I think it started with PSG's collaboration with Jordan, which opened doors for others. In U.S.A we've also seen it happen, more so in basketball, for example. We saw Louis Vuitton collaborating with the NBA, Kid Super too. I wanted to ask you. When will it be possible in Portugal? And what do you think is missing in Portugal for us to start seeing things that way?
I think there needs to be investment, there needs to be people who want to invest. Basketball needs to be a “storefront”, in other words, people need it to be a show. The NBA game is a total show, there are jerseys, there are cheerleaders. During the game there's Spike Lee sitting in the front row, there's Beyoncé and Jay-Z, it’s crazy! In other words, everyone wants to see these people. Everyone wants to be there. There needs to be money and investment.
Here in Portugal are there any brands that inspire you or catch your eye?
Honestly, I don't follow much portuguese brands but there are some stores that I do like, such as Miguel Costa's “House of Curated”, “O gato que Mordeu o Chapéu Amarelo”, “OGQMOCA”, but there have to be more.
What advice would you give to someone who’s creating their own brand? and what were the main challenges you faced?
Reagarding challenges, the topic of high Moq's and the initial investment perhaps. Factories always want the best of both worlds. Time is also needed and we don't always have it. As for advice, what I always say is that the most important thing is to like and believe in your ideas and products. That's what Carolina and I did. I remember my and Carolina's first sale, which was to a client in Austria - it was incredible, we were amazed, it was a fantastic moment.
In Spain we've seen a fairly recent boom in brands such as Two Jeys, Nude Project, Cold Culture, Scuffers, Eme Studios etc. What are they doing that we're not and what are they better at than us?
They're growing a lot, it´s true. The Spanish public invests in fashion and that makes a difference. The truth is that they have more purchasing power, but they are people who like fashion. You go to Fuencarral, Salamanca and so on and you see queues at the entrance to the stores and people are looking at it. Not here, it's our culture unfortunately and the low purchasing power doesn't help. In Spain they're doing very well, they keep growing. I think Netflix stars like Manu Rios, Áron Piper and so on have contributed to this. I want that to happen here, obviously, but it's difficult, you have to invest and it's not easy.
At european level we have several established fashion weeks such as Paris, Milan and London. Increasingly, Copenhagen is taking on a very important position. How do you see it? Do you think it's possible, for example, in Porto or Lisbon?
The Nordic countries have a very distinctive style, which I saw first-hand when I lived in Iceland. They are rich countries with great taste in everything (fashion, details, interiors, architecture). There are fantastic Nordic brands and fashion week is top and will always be top, they just know how to do it right. I hope that Lisbon and Porto will also see a boom. We have the capacity, we're a fantastic country, but we need investment. We have to get it on the map, it's difficult, but Copenhagen has also started to appear.
You're an athlete, you have your own brand is there any area or project that Miguel Maria would like to explore?
I love architecture, I love interior design, furniture, sofas, imagining chairs and designing spaces in my head. I love all those things!
Leave some positive words for our comunity :)
We're a fantastic country with lots of good things. We don't value what we have. I've lived in several countries and there are few like us, with quality of life, food, insurance, good people. We have everything to be recognized on many levels - music, art, fashion designers, architects, etc. We have to continue to believe in what we do and create quality things.